Useful Tips

How to make studded rubber for a bike

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Greetings Drayvovchan! I think that this blog will benefit someone! Especially it concerns veloDriverov.
Winter came and I had to do something with the bike so as not to fall on the ice. Since I am for winter walks on the bike! having driven out on summer tires and even letting her bike down a bit, I didn’t like it (((I could buy a finished studded bicycle tire - it would cost me 3100 thousand rubles for a cylinder. Not only because of thirst to save, but also from the eternal desire to do what with my own hands, I decided to make winter bike tires myself.

It was bought:my old summer tires drove them several seasons (in poor condition),
13 mm. self-tapping screws with a press washer (about 400 pieces.) I bought Kazakhstan self-tapping screws in quality better than China! 2 tenge - per piece
Awl ordinary shoe
Clay Moment for Rubber

Issue Price:Self-tapping screws - 800 TNG, Clay - 165 TNG, an awl which broke immediately 150 TNG = 1115 tng

The total teeth of the tire were 80 + 140 + 80. I did not want to screw 300 screws, so in the side rows I inserted the screws through one. As a result, about 190-200 self-tapping screws were inserted into each tire. This made the tires heavier by about 200 grams..

So, there are tires, self-tapping screws, too. We must get to work. First you need to make the stress holes in the tires. Without them, the screws will often go crooked and crawl out of place where necessary. It is very important that the screws “peek out” from the center of the “tooth” - this will extend the life of the tire. To do this, I took a drill and began to drill holes. It was, to put it mildly, hard, so I came up with a new way: I clamped a nail with pliers, heated it over a fire and made holes in it with tires. It was no longer difficult, but it still took a lot of time. And then an ingenious thought occurred to me - to make holes with an awl! The awl was not at home, so I had to buy it. Making holes with an awl is the best option.

The holes are ready, it's time to screw the screws. I bought 13 mm screws with a press washer. It is very important to buy it with a press washer, as only they have a fairly wide "hat". I screwed the screws into the tire with an ordinary screwdriver. I didn’t turn the tire inside out on the first wheel, on the second I turned it inside out so much faster and easier! The main thing is that the screws screw in evenly. They do not need to be planted on glue. The screw should be screwed so that at the exit it slightly crushes the rubber under itself with a thread.

The screws are screwed in, move on. Now they need to be sharpened. I had sharpened, but not quite resourceful, well, I did something but confidently overcame it ... Even the self-tapping screws got very strong and sharpened rather sharpened than they did. But, anyway, they managed to undermine them. On one tire, the spikes were slightly longer, I put it on the front wheel, because it carries less load and the quality of handling depends on it. The side row of self-tapping screws can be sharpened weaker (the main thing is that they are not sharp), because they will work only when cornering.

The screws are screwed and turned, but this is not all. So that the screws do not damage the camera, you need to make a lining. For this, I severely cut two chambers - one old and one, I’m not afraid of the word, new. Now you can assemble the wheel. When laying the camera, be careful not to scratch it on the spikes.
And I glued the gasket from the camera with Moment glue (for rubber) so that it would be easier to lay the camera when the disk is being removed!

Today I tested my homemade winter tire covers, driving about 15 km on snow and about 25 km on asphalt. When driving on asphalt, a rather loud noise is created, but you can not call it a big drawback. When driving on snow and ice, the tires showed their best performance - if you compare the fact that I rode the same rubber without spikes !, I rode on ice without bothering, as if on asphalt and even went to the river on ice :) If you compare studded tires with ordinary tires, albeit with an evil tread, with emergency braking, the difference is simply monstrous. Heaven and earth! With studded tires during sharp braking at high speed on the ice absolutely does not drift, spikes leave a deep mark on the ice.

Only one drawbackit’s hard to maintain a high ride speed and a little harder to ride overall. This is felt when driving on asphalt, but driving on ice / snow is a pleasure.

As I already said,about 25 km yesterday I had to drive on bare asphalt. A friend who has much more experience said that upon arrival home I will have to change tires, as the spikes from the asphalt will be erased. But it turned out that the screws almost did not erase. They only turned and became not sharp, but the length remained the same. However, it is worth noting that once and for all it is not necessary - I was just lucky to buy high-quality self-tapping screws. (Kazakhstan) In general, to drive such rubber on asphalt, although it is not advisable, but you can, if you keep it at a high speed.

Today I rolled along the trampled forest paths. What a thrill!Those who doubt whether to ride in the winter or not - leave at least on summer tires in the nearest forest or park on a sunny day - you will not regret it! By the way, one friend of mine rides in the summer in the summer, arguing that summer tires roll perfectly in the snow. I agree with this, only to get a fall and serious injury, a fairly small icing of 1x1 in the wrong place.

Option number 1: Alteration of the tire (large tread)

You will need:

  • deep tread tire
  • Small flat screws (packaging), in this case, short wood screws are well suited

1. Get a package of screws at a hardware store.

2. Take a drill and a drill of 2-3 mm. In the places where you are going to install the spikes, drill holes.

3. Try to screw the self-tapping screw at a perpendicular angle (90 degrees) to the tire, it should not stick out to the side.

  • Drill the hole immediately and screw in the screw. When you first screw the holes, and then screw the screws, then the search for holes will take you a lot of time.

4. After these works, glue the inner surface of the tire (in 2 layers) with reinforced electrical tape. Instead of adhesive tape, you can also use special anti-puncture tape in the tire, which are sold in the bike shop. They will help protect the camera from damage by screw heads.

5. Place the tire on the rim of the bicycle. Be careful during installation - hands may be injured.

Option number 2: Alteration of the tire (small tread)

You will need:

  • fine tread bicycle tires
  • Packing short bolts and a matching set of nuts. Bolts should be short, not massive, nuts in height not more than 1 cm.

1. Remove the wheels of the bike, remove from the tire wheels.

2. Determine the places in the tire where bolts can be placed (must be twisted between the rubber protection spikes, always in the center and preferably along the edges, but not close to the rim).

3. Mark the selected holes with a marker. Drill holes smaller than the thickness of the bolts (they will have to be screwed into the tire, but that way the bolts will not fail).

4. Screw the bolts into the tire with a thread on the outside, then tighten the nuts on the bolts from the outside of the tire. Then the nuts and ends of the bolts will work as spikes.

5. As in the first embodiment, insert an anti-puncture tape inside the tire or glue the reinforced electrical tape in a couple of layers.

6. Install tires, mount wheels on the bike.

Option No. 3: Use chain pieces as spikes

You will need:

  • Bicycle or other small chain.
  • Wire, small bolts and nuts, other metal clamps.

1. This method is simpler, but it is only suitable for bicycle disc brakes.

2. Purchase the necessary items.

3. Dismantle the wheels from the bicycle, determine the size in the girth of the rim + tire using a flexible meter.

4. Bite off the chain obtained in the measurement length.

5. Fasten the cut chains around the rim and tire. This can be done with wire, bolts with nuts, other metal clamps.

6. Mount the wheels. If suddenly the wheels do not put in place - remove the plastic protection.

Work recommendations

  • Do-it-yourself rubber studding work on a bike takes a lot of time.
  • Do not inflate the wheel chamber very much, a slightly lowered wheel has a large grip area with the road surface.
  • For stable driving on ice, winding the chain on wheels is best suited (option number 3). The wheel should not be wide.
  • An old bicycle chain is enough to wind one thin 28-diameter wheel. Use a chain squeeze during work.
  • Even if you put the chain only on the front, and on the back - a tire with an increased tread - the resulting bike design will be stable on snow and ice, sand.
  • Do not try to ride studded tires on stones - spikes will not save from such a road.
  • To put the chain on the wheel correctly, first lower it, and how to fix the chain, pump it up. High pressure in the chamber will hold the chain very well.
  • The anti-puncture tape can be made of a used tire with a low (slick) tread (bald), cut a strip of the required width from the used tire and put it inside the used one. If this design is bulky, you can cut the strip from the old camera and put it on the rubber glue inside the used tire. Such a tape better protects the camera from punctures than reinforced tape.

Warnings

  • You must understand that riding a bike on a slippery road (snow, ice, dirt), even on a bike with such a modification of the wheels is fraught with falls and injuries. Therefore, if the road is very slippery and it is difficult to drive along it without falling off the bicycle, then it is better to use another means of transportation.
  • Self-tapping screws have fairly sharp edges that can pierce the camera with an improper or inattentive installation.
  • Studded rubber is applicable for mountain bikes, it is not advisable to use narrow tires for this purpose.
  • Do not pump the wheels; this may cause a fall from the bicycle.
  • If you have chosen the 3rd variant of spike wheels, you should understand that in case of a puncture the camera will have to remove pieces of the chain and put it back on after repair.
  • The 1st and 2nd options are not suitable for tubeless cameras, if you drill a tire, then break its tightness.

We hope the article helped the option of hissing rubber for a bicycle. Share in the comments what you did. Also watch a helpful video on this topic.

Rubber with large tread

In order to make studded rubber at home, it is necessary to prepare tires with a deep tread and small self-tapping screws (the most commonly used self-tapping screws for wood).

When the components are prepared, you must perform the following steps:

  • on the back of the tire, using a marker, it is necessary to indicate the places in which the spikes will be placed,
  • use a 3 mm drill to make a hole for the tenon,
  • using a screwdriver, screw a self-tapping screw into the hole, while the spike should not stick out to the side, but be placed at an angle of 90 degrees,
  • the screw should be screwed in immediately after work with a drill,
  • after all the studs are installed, it is necessary, using a special reinforced tape, to glue the inner tires often to prevent the studs from falling out during riding,
  • check the tire and install it on the bicycle wheel.

This type of installation does not take a lot of time. Most often, the spikes are installed at an equal distance from each other.

Fine tread rubber

For the manufacture of rubber, prepare tires with a small pattern and small bolts with nuts. Bolts should be no more than 1.5 cm long.

To make this type of studded rubber, you should perform the following algorithm of actions:

  • remove the tires from the bicycle wheel,
  • on the inside of the tire, apply the places where the spikes will be installed using a white marker,
  • using a drill of 2-3 mm., make a hole and tighten the bolt. It should be remembered that the drill should be smaller in diameter than the bolt. The bolt must be screwed into the rubber with force,
  • screw the nut onto the bolt from the outside,
  • carry out such a procedure with all the bolts,
  • inside the tire it is necessary to salt the reinforced tape for additional fixation,
  • install the tire on the wheel.

When studding tires in this way, you need to drill holes in the middle. The edges and the part closer to the rim are not used.

Pieces of chain for hissing

To perform this type of bicycle tire hissing, an old bicycle chain or other type of shallow chain may be used at the discretion of the cyclist.

Most often, this technique is used for disc brakes on a bicycle, however, if desired, it can be used for all types of bicycles.

To install the pieces of the chain, proceed as follows:

  • remove the wheel with tires from the bike. Unlike the first options, they don’t take off the tires,
  • Using a meter, measure the required chain size. The chain length should be the circumference of the tire and bicycle rim,
  • make chain blanks of the required length,
  • using a strong wire or special clamps, fix the ends of the chain in the region of the rim so that the chain fits snugly on the tire,
  • the chain should be placed at an equal distance from each other,
  • put the wheels in place and check their normal functioning.

This method is used much less often than the first two. However, it is much simpler and does not require long installation.

Recommendations for performing a rubber hiss

To studded bicycle tires last a long time, you should follow the advice of professionals:

  • in order for the screws to last a longer time, use the lugs before screwing in,
  • holes must be drilled with a thin drill at high speeds,
  • when using studded rubber, do not pump the wheels, as this reduces the effectiveness of the use of studs,
  • sharpening screws need to be cut a little, leaving no more than 5 mm,
  • to use bolts, it is necessary to choose washers with a height of not more than 1 cm,
  • in the absence of a reinforced tape, you can use the old camera, cut along,
  • use tire chain recommended for thin wheels. Spikes must be used on a wide tire.
  • the use of studs is not suitable for tubeless tires, this reduces their tightness and makes the device unsuitable,
  • the chain can only be used on one wheel, preferably on the rear. This will help to ride more comfortably on ice.

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