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When to plant a host and how to properly care for her?

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The shady corners of your garden can be very beautiful - they add to it a certain variety and mystery. The host will make even the most problematic places, for example, under the crowns of trees or on the north side of the house, as spectacular as the best parts of your garden. She is not bothered by the limited access to light, with her your shady places will never be empty.

If you want to decorate your garden with an unusual and bright plant, pay attention to this perennial, which strikes the imagination with the beauty of magnificent variegated leaves collected in lush arms.

What you need to know about the host before boarding?

Hosta, or Function - a genus of perennial herbaceous plants, which includes more than 40 species. The birthplace of the flower is East Asia and the Far East.

In nature, the bush grows in shaded areas, near water bodies. It is noteworthy that the Chinese eat this plant for food, and believe that it is endowed with sacred divine power.

Hosta is one of the favorite plants of landscape designers. It looks beautiful and organic in any floral arrangements. Many varieties are known that differ in size and color of leaves, height, abundance of flowering.

Features that you need to know in order to beautifully plant hosts in the garden:

  • the roots are thick, firmly fixed in the ground, the stem is absent,
  • ordinary flowers, sometimes double, collected in inflorescences, brushes, rise above the leaves on long peduncles,
  • flowers in various shades - from white to blue or purple,
  • veined leaves, multifactorial, heart-shaped, monochromatic or variegated, collected in sockets,
  • Depending on the variety, there are green, yellow, blue and white shades of leaves.

As a rule, they grow in height from 55 to 75 cm. Dwarf species of small sizes (up to 15 cm) and giant varieties (1-1.2 m in height) are also known.

Host Flower Description

Hosta (Function) is a grassy perennial of the Asparagus family. Valued for decorative foliage and variety of varieties. There are about 700 varieties and 40 types of hosts that have taken root in Europe and in Russia. It grows quickly, is unpretentious in leaving, is steady against heat, feels great in the shade.

Leaves hosts are diverse:

  • heart-shaped
  • elongated
  • pointy
  • rounded off.

The color of the leaves is possible green, blue and yellow in all shades. Hosta is a worthy background for flowering crops.

Selection of planting material

The main requirements for the selection of seedlings, so that the seedlings are healthy, with clean leaves, without harmful insects and signs of fungal damage, with a developed root system.

There are three types of hosts on sale: with an open root system, in packages, in pots:

  • With an open root system, a host is acquired in early spring. The roots should be light and elastic. Such planting material is obtained by dividing an adult bush. This is the best and inexpensive type of seedling.
  • In packages they sell host rhizomes. As a rule, such packaging comes to us from the Netherlands. It is necessary to choose large specimens, hard to the touch. Get a spine that is already sprouting a little.
  • In pots, you can buy a host in the spring and autumn. This seedling will be rooted, with grown leaves. All grade characteristics will be visible. It is better to get just such bushes.

In general, hosts take root well after transplantation, and in the first year they begin to grow actively.

How to save the host before boarding?

If you purchased small host seedlings in the fall, then you can not plant them immediately in open ground. Such bushes have very tender, fragile foliage. It will immediately attract the attention of slugs and other pests.

Therefore, for the winter, these seedlings are preferably placed in pots with prepared nutrient soil. Send them for the winter to the winter garden or to the balcony. In these rooms, the air temperature should be positive.

How to grow more crops?

Any gardener and summer resident is pleased to receive a large crop with large fruits. Unfortunately, it is far from always possible to obtain the desired result.

Often plants lack nutrition and healthy minerals

In such cases, our readers recommend using - the innovative bio-fertilizer BioGrow.

It has the following properties:

  • Allows increase yield by 50% in just a few weeks of use.
  • Can get good harvest even on low soils and in adverse climatic conditions
  • Absolutely safe

Landing site requirements

Let's figure out the question of where to put the host in the country? The soil needs loose, fertile. If there is a lot of sand and clay on the plot in the ground, add peat. Thanks to him, mineral substances will not be washed out when fertilizing.

Shadow and partial shade are preferred by most representatives of this culture.

Although there are sun-tolerant varieties with thick green leaves.

These are the varieties:

  • Sun Pow (Sun Power),
  • Christmas Candy,
  • June Fever

General description of the plant

Hosta belongs to the Asparagus family and is a perennial ornamental plant. Its main decoration is leaves.

Depending on the variety, they differ:

  1. Size. Small, from 5 cm long. Medium - 15 cm. Large - up to 40 cm.
  1. Form.Narrow options with pointed edges, long loin, cordate and rounded. Grow from the root.
  1. Different plate surface. Leaves are smooth or textured with bright veins. Some of them are glossy and with a metallic sheen. Matte options look original. In addition, wrinkled, crushed or waxed specimens are found.
  1. Color. In nature, there are hosts with leaves of all shades of green or blue. There are species in which white or cream leaves.
  1. Painted pattern. Plants with a painted sheet plate and with an original frame are especially impressive. Intricate strokes, stripes or spots are the highlight of this plant.

Due to its rapid proliferation, the hosta is often used as a groundcover ornamental plant. In a short time, it can occupy an area of ​​1 m², therefore it is used for garden design.

The flower reaches a height of 50 cm to 80 cm. However, new giant varieties have already been bred - up to 2 meters. As well as dwarf species - 5 cm high.

Charming bell-shaped or funnel-shaped flowers hosta majestically rise above the plant.

They are located on stable peduncles in the center of the leaf rosette. Inflorescences are collected in one-sided brushes that bloom in mid-summer. Some of them are terry, others are simple. By color are found:

After flowering, the fruits appear on the shoots. They are a trihedral chest in which many seeds are stored. Similarity persists for up to 1 year.

The hosta ornamental plant is considered unpretentious, as it tolerates cold and drought. In addition, it perfectly survives in the shade. It can remain on one site for up to 20 years without losing its pristine beauty.

In landscape design, the hosta is often used as the main background for garden flowers or low shrubs.

Hosta Wavy

A low plant, growing up to 30 cm, is characterized by oblong ovate leaves. Their length reaches 20 cm, width - 13. The edges are wavy. In the center, the leaf plate is painted white or mixed with green.

Inflorescences of light purple grow up to 80 cm above a leaf rosette. They resemble a lily, which gives it elegance. In nature, the host grows in forests, where there is fertile soil.

Fortune variety

This variety of flower grows over half a meter. Her original leaflets resemble a heart. On the edges they are cast in gold, and in the center - green. Under certain lighting, a blue tint appears.

Flowering hosts occur in August. The flower stalk rises above the foliage to a height of 50 cm.

Lanceolate host

Sometimes this variety is called narrow-leaved beauty. Perennial grows up to 40 cm. Leaves are usually lanceolate. The edges are pointed. They shine in the sun. The color is dark green.

Purple buds rise above the bush by half a meter. It begins to bloom in August, throws the last inflorescences in mid-autumn.

Siebold Grade

Low bushes 30 cm high, often pleasing to the eye in suburban areas. The originality of the species is that its leaves are dense and wrinkled. Their color is pale green, but on top of the plate is covered with a waxy coating.

Peduncles ascend above the bush to a height of 50 cm. The buds are pale purple. Bloom from June to September.

White-fronted host

A dwarf plant that grows only up to 30 cm. The leaf plate is wide, but thin. The form is lanceolate. Color - dark green with a white frame.

Inflorescences rise above the plant to a height of 30 cm. The buds are purple, white or lilac. It begins to bloom in July. Last flowers at the end of August.

Hosta Podorozhnikova

This kind of hosta reaches up to 50 cm in height. It features large rounded leaves of bright green color.

Huge buds are almost always white. They have a pleasant, persistent aroma. It begins to bloom in July, downloads in late summer. Heat-loving grade.

Host Flower Description

Hosts are herbaceous perennials with a short rhizome, petiolate leaves, various in shape, color and texture and forming a basal rosette, and racemose, often one-sided inflorescences of lilac, purple or white funnel-shaped or bell-shaped flowers located on high, slightly leafy peduncles. In some species, flower arrows can reach 120 cm. The hosta fruit is a leathery trihedral box with flat winged black seeds. Hosts are long-lived even among perennials: unlike other plants, their sockets become more magnificent, more beautiful over the years and keep decorative for up to 25 years or more.

When to land the host in the ground

When is it better to plant and when to transplant to a host? The best time for this is spring, when the root growth begins, but the leaves on the plant have not yet appeared. Or the end of summer, the beginning of autumn. Actually, hosts can be transplanted throughout the summer, but the deadline is mid-September: later planted bushes may not have time to take root. Nevertheless, we recommend you a spring landing.

Primer for hosts

According to experienced gardeners, planting hosts and caring for it will give the expected results only if you find a suitable place for the plant and provide the soil with the optimal composition. Despite the unpretentiousness and ability to grow on any garden soil, the maximum decorativeness of the host will be demonstrated only when grown in a well-drained, moderately moistened nutrient soil, in which there is a lot of humus and earthworms. Most of all other types of soil, these characteristics correspond to cultivated loam. The pH value of the soil should be in the range of pH 6.5-7.5. Unsuitable for the host is heavy untreated clay and dry sandy soil.

About two weeks before planting, spread organic fertilizers on the surface of the hosta cultivation area — rotted pine bark, leafy soil, peat, rotted manure or compost earth — about 10 cm thick and dig the soil with this organic matter to the depth of the shovel bayonet. The consumption should be approximately 1.5-2 buckets of fertilizer per m² area. Try to raise the flowerbed: this will contribute to better aeration of the soil and roots.

How to plant host

Water the site about half an hour before planting. Small and medium-sized hosts are planted at intervals of 20-30 cm, and large-leaved ones are planted at a distance of 30-40 cm. The root system of the host usually grows horizontally, therefore, the wider the hole and the farther the hosts are from each other, the more they will have a power area, which will have a positive effect on decorativeness. The plant responds well to mulching the surface between the outlets with leafy soil, and the mulch layer should be no thinner than 5 cm. Thanks to mulching the soil with organic fertilizer, the host will not lack nutrition, especially those bushes that grow near trees and shrubs. In addition, mulch improves the drainage properties of the soil and does not allow moisture to evaporate too quickly.

After planting, the hosts are watered, and the surface can be mulched the next day.

How to care for hosts

As we already wrote, hosts can grow on one site for many years, and if this place is successful and caring for plants is good, they will grow and grow only from year to year. Host care consists of watering, weeding, loosening the soil, mulching the surface, moderate and timely top dressing.

At most hostas, flowers have no decorative value, so it is better to cut or break flower arrows as soon as they appear: before flowering, each leaf of the outlet is in that place and at the angle where it receives more light, and the host forms a neat curtain, but with the appearance of peduncles, the bush falls apart and becomes untidy. However, such hosts as plantain, as well as its varieties Grandiflora and Summer Fragrans, do not cut flower arrows, since fragrant, large and white flowers of these plants are an indisputable decoration of the garden.

Watering hosts

Hosts, like all plants with large foliage, evaporate a lot of moisture in the heat, and the more moisture in the soil, the larger the leaves. After planting, the bushes are watered for two weeks daily. Frequent watering will be required for the plant during the budding period and during fruit setting. Young hosts need regular hydration more than mature bushes, although adult hosts need water in the heat. The soil in the flower garden should be slightly moist all the time, the water for irrigation should not be cold, and the stream should be strong: this will cause the surface to compact, and it should be loose, so your task is to moisten the soil. Sandy soil needs to be watered every day. A signal that the hosts lack moisture is the darkened and dried tips of the leaves.

Feeding hosts

Hosta in the open ground needs additional nutrition, and it is better to offer organic matter in the form of mulch, which covers the site once every 3-4 years. Some gardeners believe that this is enough for the hosts. Indeed, when growing on fertile soil and away from competing plants, other fertilizers other than mulch may not be necessary for the host. If the soil is sparse, it will be necessary from time to time to add compost and mineral complexes into it in granular or liquid form. The host needs fertilizers in which nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus are in equal parts, or complexes in which there are two times more superphosphate than nitrogen and potassium. Dry fertilizers are scattered between curtains after rain or watering, trying to prevent granules from falling onto the leaves. Nutrient solutions are also poured carefully so that burns do not appear on the leaves. Mineral fertilizing is applied twice a month from spring to mid-July, and then the feeding is stopped so that the plant instead of foliage formation begins to accumulate nutrition for the winter.

Transplant hosts

Hosts such as Tokudama and Siebold need to be transplanted only in the autumn, in early September, since they do not grow roots in the spring. For rooting in a new place, the plant needs about a month.

Other hosts can be transplanted in the spring. It is not difficult to do this: the bush is dug up entirely with an earthen lump and, if the type of roots does not alert you, the host is transplanted into a prepared hole. If it seems to you that the root system of the plant is not completely healthy, examine it, remove diseased, dry or rotten roots, treat the sections with a solution of Fundazole or a strong solution of potassium permanganate and plant in a new place. Simultaneously with the transplant, hosts can be multiplied by rhizome division. How to do this, we will write a little later.

Preparing hosts for winter

Before the onset of cold weather, cover the base of the hosta bush with sawdust, peat or dry humus, add tobacco dust against slugs to the mulch and spray it with Fitosporin to protect sleeping plants from bacterial and fungal infections. Then cover the bushes with spruce branches, brushwood or dry branches, but in no case do not use plastic wrap, roofing felt or other airtight insulation under which the host can vypryat or rot.

Pruning hosts

To your questions whether to prune the host, and if so, when to prune the host, we answer: this procedure is not necessary in the fall, many remove last year's leaves from the bush in the spring. If you let the plant bloom, then after the inflorescences wither, the flower arrows are removed so that the bush does not feed the already unnecessary organ in vain, and curtains from succulent leaves will decorate the garden for some time to come. Hosta's preparation for winter begins when it loses its appeal. If you decide to cut the host for the winter, wait first when its leaves turn yellow, but know that you must have time to complete the procedure before the first frost. Затем следуйте рекомендациям, описанным в предыдущем пункте.

Размножение хосты

Сортовые хосты размножают вегетативно – делением куста и черенкованием. Можно размножать цветы и семенным способом, но это процедура более трудоемка и длительна: декоративного эффекта сеянцы достигают лишь на четвертый год.

Деление кустов хосты лучше всего осуществлять весной, в конце апреля, начале мая или в сентябре. They dig up the bush, carefully remove the roots from the ground, divide them so that each part has 1-2 rosettes of leaves and roots. Delenki is planted in prepared wells at the same depth at which the mother plant grew. The distance between the parts during planting is observed within 25-35 cm. After sealing the holes, the surface is watered and then mulched.

Cutting hosts carried out from May to July: easily separated shoots with a heel are suitable as cuttings, and it is desirable that their petioles are shorter and the leaves are smaller. Before planting, the leaves of the cuttings are shortened by a third or even half. Cuttings are planted in the ground and watered. At first, it will seem to you that they died, because their leaves lie helplessly on the ground. Shade the cuttings from direct sunlight, water them and spray them in the evenings, and soon the plants will restore turgor, and then new leaves will begin to appear on them.

Disease Hosts

Hosts are surprisingly resistant plants: diseases and pests almost never affect them. However, there have been cases when hosts became ill. botritis, or gray rot - a disease that can destroy any plant at any stage of its development, and even during storage. The causative agent of this fungal disease is activated in conditions of increased dampness, so when watering the hosts be careful. Affected areas and plants must be cut and burned, and healthy ones are treated with fungicidal preparations.

In recent years, viral diseases have been detected on the host abroad. Hvx and virus X which appear as yellow speckles or ring-shaped spots on the leaves, which makes them unevenly mottled. If such signs appear on your plants, immediately destroy the affected specimens, as the incurable virus spreads very quickly.

Pests hosts

Hosts may have problems due to gastropods eating its leaves and leaving round holes on them. Most affected are varieties and species with thin foliage. They get rid of slugs, laying out pieces of slate and boards over the site: in the heat, the mollusks crawl under them, hiding from the sun. Collect slugs and destroy. You can prevent the appearance of these pests on the site by scattering crushed eggshells or large bark on the surface.

Sometimes hosts hit leaf nematodes. You can learn about their presence in late July or early August by the brown stripes that appeared between the veins on the leaves. It is useless to fight nematodes on plants, but since they winter in the soil, you can treat the surface of the plot with an insecticide in autumn and repeat the treatment in early spring. Nitrofen is most suitable for this purpose.

Sometimes the host is hurt black weevils: the leaves of the plant turn yellow and prematurely fade. They destroy insects with insecticides: Aktara, Aktellik, Karbofos and other similar drugs.

Types and varieties of hosts

In industrial volumes around the world today, about 10 species and more than 400 varieties of hosts are cultivated. They are divided into groups according to the height of the bush and the color of the foliage. For example, according to the color of leaves, hosts are divided into the following:

  • green
  • bluish green and blue
  • white-fringed with a greenish-golden or golden center,
  • golden
  • white-fringed with a bluish-green center,
  • with a golden border and golden green, bluish-green or white center,
  • with a bluish-green border and a golden or white center,
  • with leaves in strokes and spots,
  • with greening, yellowing or whitening leaves,
  • other color, not included in the described groups.

According to the height of the bush, the varieties and types of host are divided into:

  • dwarf (mini, dwarf), whose height is about 5-10 cm,
  • small (small) height not more than 20 cm,
  • medium (medium) up to 30 cm high,
  • large up to 45 cm
  • giant (gigant, very large) in height up to 60 and more centimeters.

Of the species plants in the culture, hosts most often grown are white-edged, swollen, tall, decorative, Siebold, beautiful, curly, Fortune, lanceolate, or narrow-leaved, small, ovate, straight-leafed, plantain and undulate. Many forms and varieties of hybrid origin for convenience are combined under the name of the host hybrid. We offer you a description of the most popular varieties of hosts:

When is it best to plant a host in the garden?

The host can be planted in a permanent place in spring and autumn:

  1. Spring. The end of April and the first half of May is the optimal landing date. In Siberia, the Urals and other regions with late spring frosts, plant and share hosts no earlier than the end of May. It is advisable to prepare the soil in the designated area in the fall. In October, you need to make any organic fertilizer for digging.
  2. Autumn. The end of August and mid-September is the time of the autumn landing of the hosta. The bushes will still have time to take root, to strengthen. In autumn, you can transplant crops in the middle zone of the country, in the Moscow region, in the Volga region.

How to plant a host?

Hosts should be planted in groups at a distance of 30 - 80 cm, depending on the variety. Plant the bush from the container and delenki into the ground to a depth of 2 - 4 cm deeper than it grew.

There is a host landing scheme with dark and light foliage:

  1. Flowers with deep green and deep blue leaves can be planted near trees with a small crown. Such hosts have enough sun 2 hours a day.
  2. White and Gold Hosted Hosts plant in a more open area. Without the sun, these plants will lose the pattern on the leaves.

Stories of our readers!
“I’m a summer resident with many years of experience, and I started to use this fertilizer only last year. I tested it on the most capricious vegetable of my garden - on tomatoes. The bushes grew and bloomed together, they gave the crop more than usual. And they didn’t get late blight, this is the main thing.

Fertilizer really gives a more intensive growth of garden plants, and they bear fruit much better. Now you can’t grow a normal crop without fertilizer, and this top dressing increases the number of vegetables, so I’m very pleased with the result. "

Potted seed cultivation

Bush hosts can sprout from seeds at home.

This method of obtaining a plant has disadvantages:

  • First of allseedlings from seeds grow very slowly and require constant attention.
  • Secondly, the host, which was obtained from the seeds, may lose the zest of the variety, change the color and size of the leaves.

The untreated seeds of this flower have poor germination, about 70%, so they need stimulation.

Consider the main stages of germination.

Preparing seeds at home:

  • A month before planting, the seeds are stratified. For example, they are placed in an apartment in the freezer for this.
  • Next, the seeds need to be soaked in Zircon or Epin two to three hours before disembarking.

Planting Seeds:

  • use purchased soil, it is clean, without spores of fungi,
  • Pour drainage and prepared soil into the container, carefully spread the seeds and sprinkle 5 mm with a thin layer of earth,
  • cover the container with a film, remove it several times a day for two to three hours,
  • when germinating seeds, spray the soil from the spray gun, rather than watering,
  • put the container in a dark place, after the appearance of seedlings, move the container to a lighter place.

How to care for seedlings:

  • picking seedlings after the appearance of two true leaves,
  • protect seedlings from direct sunlight,
  • provide moderate watering under the root through the pallet.

Other ways of propagating hosts

And also the host propagates by dividing the bush and cuttings:

  1. Dividing the bush in the spring after warming the cottage soil. This is the most common way to plant this flower. You can share a healthy adult 3-4 year old bush. It is necessary to leave intact 50% of the root system of the bush. After dividing, the uterine bush and new seedlings are recommended to be shed with a root.
  2. Cuttings - a less used method. For it, shoots-sockets without young roots, but with a piece of the old root, are suitable. Such a stalk can be planted under a plastic bottle. Roots appear within a month.

This fertilizer increases the crop by 2 times

You can get a good crop even on low fertile soils and in adverse climatic conditions. Absolutely safe.

Host Care

It’s easy to arrange good host care. She is very unpretentious to growth conditions.

Consider the features of host care:

  1. No need for frequent transplants. On one site it is able to grow up to 10 years.
  2. Fertilizers with trace elements to add after rain. Also, you can pre-wet the soil around the roots. When making fertilizer granules, try not to get on the leaves. They may get burned.
  3. Maintain soil moisture under seedlingssince large leaves evaporate a lot of moisture. Water the seedlings in the morning or evening hours, without directing a stream of water on the greenery.
  4. Immediately after flowering, cut the peduncle.
  5. Regularly inspect the bushes for insects and fungal diseases.. In case of infection, treat using insecticides and fungicides.

Learn how to take care of a host from the video:

Disease name Description and methods of struggle
Root of the cervixDescription:

The fungus appears in the thickened host plantings on moist and clay soils. Signs of damage - leaves discolor and die.

Methods of struggle:

  • Dig a plant, separate damaged tissue from healthy ones.
  • Treat the remaining root with a fungicide, for example, Fundazole or Teldor.
Gray Rot (Botritis)Description:

Signs of the presence of the fungus - first rot the edges of the leaves and later the entire leaf plate.

Methods of struggle:

Tear off heavily damaged leaves, and spray the remaining leaves with Cuproxat Champion or Oksikhom RustDescription:

This fungus appears on yellow-edged host varieties in dry soil. The sheet turns brown and dries.

Methods of struggle:

The use of fungicide on the sheet AnthracnoseDescription:

This disease manifests itself in hot summers at high temperatures and lack of fertilizer. A sign of damage is the appearance of red spots on the leaves.

Methods of struggle:

Treatment of bushes with systemic fungicide Tilt, Oksikh HVX virusDescription:

This virus infects only the host and is not treatable. Signs of damage - the leaf is deformed, becomes wrinkled, chewed, blotches of color appear that are not characteristic of the variety.

Methods of struggle:

  • Dig up and burn damaged seedlings, disinfect garden tools.
  • Buy hosts only in garden centers, compare the color of the leaf form of the host in the catalog. After the acquisition, hold the bush for some time separately from other hosts. Only after quarantine, plant the plant in a permanent place.

Strawberries and Strawberries at home all year round! - a hybrid variety that has appeared recently. He gives strawberries a big, beautiful, with a high content of vitamins and minerals.

Pest nameDescription and methods of struggle
Slugs and Snails

They love to hide in the shade of the host’s large, broad leaves. Here they feed on stems, young shoots, foliage of these plants. Signs of damage are large holes in the leaves, a shiny trace from the body of the slugs.

Methods of struggle:

  • sprinkle tobacco dust, dry mustard, ash, lime, nitrophosk around the plants with a thin layer,
  • use special preparations (Thunder, Sludge, Metaldehyde, Ulicide) to scare away slugs,
  • make homemade traps and collect pests by hand,
  • Do not plant plants very close to each other, allow the soil to dry between waterings.
AphidDescription:

A small plant pest that multiplies rapidly. Signs of damage - first, small brown spots appear on the leaves, from which holes later form.

Methods of struggle:

  • Use insecticides from garden pests. Suitable drugs such as Decis, Spark, Actor, Confidor, Angio. Adhesive can be added to these chemicals so that the solution does not drain from the smooth leaves of the host,
  • In parallel, destroy garden ants on the site. They have food symbiosis with aphids. Ants apply aphids to plants, and then feed on its juice.
Mouse volesDescription:

They may resort to private gardens in the fall from the fields. Overwinter in shelters, sheds. Damage the host’s roots by gnawing them.

Methods of struggle:

  1. Use special preparations from mice, rodenticides, namely:
    1. Rat death
    2. Nutcracker,
    3. Storm,
    4. Trap.
  2. Apply traps, mousetraps.
Mole ratsDescription:

A real disaster for gardens. Two or three individuals on the site are able to destroy the entire flowerbed of bulbs, gnaw and dig up the roots of the host and other plants.

Methods of struggle:

  • installation of ultrasonic repellers in the area,
  • the use of sulfur smoke bombs.

Curly host

The plant grows to 70 cm in height. Leaves have wavy edges. The color is two-tone. The center is green, and the edges are painted with a white wide line.

Blooms in mid-summer. Inflorescences rise above the bush to 50 cm. The color of the buds is light shades of purple.

Decorative

Low bushes up to 45 cm look original on the garden plot. The diameter of the plant is 55 cm. The leaves are distinguished by a sharp tip, about 15 cm long and 8 wide. The color is richly green, with a white border around the edge.

On high peduncles (about half a meter), lavender-colored buds bloom. It blooms mainly in the summer.

Swollen host

This garden giant has large heart-shaped leaves. Their length reaches 25 cm and a width of 20. The tips of the plate are pointed. Color - deep green.

From the center of the leaf outlet, a slender peduncle rises up 1 m. On its top are delicate purple buds.

All varieties of hosts are classified by the color of the leaves and the size of the bushes. They come in color: green, blue, yellow and two-tone. By size: miniature, dwarf, small, medium, large and giants.

Cultivating hosts

To grow the “Queen of Shadows” in the summer cottage will have to make a lot of effort. One way to plant hosts is to sow seeds. Since the similarity of plant seeds is only 80%, it should be taken seriously. Despite this, almost all varieties of hosts can actually be grown from seeds. It is important to stock up on planting material on time.

Seeds are harvested in late August or early fall. During this period, the boxes acquire a brown color and open. If you miss the moment, the seeds will scatter and you can stay with nothing.

Even before sowing the seeds, they must be thoroughly dried to completely lose moisture. Until planting, seeds are stored at a temperature of at least 2 degrees in a dry room.

To host landing and caring for it were not in vain, it is important to adhere to the basic rules.

First of all, soil and planting tanks are sterilized. This makes it possible to destroy various harmful microorganisms and fungi. Prepared soil is watered with potassium permanganate diluted in water. Then, the mass is kept in a water bath for 30 minutes. After the procedure, cool the soil.

You can build a steam bath if you take a large pot. Pour liquid into it up to half, and attach a sieve with soil on top. Bring water to an active boil and keep this temperature for 30 minutes. It is desirable to cover the sieve.

Landing containers, as well as the necessary tools for work, just wipe with alcohol.

To get a good hosta seed crop, planting stock should be treated with growth stimulants. Then proceed to landing:

  1. We compact the prepared soil using a wide wooden plank.
  2. We sow planting material, shallowly planting it in the soil. Approximately 7 mm deep.
  3. Sprinkle the surface with agroperlite (crushed volcanic rock) and compact again with a wooden plank.
  4. We take out containers to the room where the temperature is not lower than 20 degrees.

The first shoots appear after 14 days. When leaflets are already noticeable, it is important to know how to put hosts in separate containers.

First you need to prepare a more nutritious composition of the soil, which is sprinkled with sand on top. Then one seedling is stuck in each pot, covering it with a film or glass. To supply moisture, lower irrigation is used. The containers are placed in a deep saucer with liquid, so that the soil gets wet under the very top.

On how to care for the host during this period depends on whether the plant will take root on the open ground or not. Therefore, the plant is important to gradually harden.

When the seedlings grow a little, film or glass should be removed for 2 to 3 hours a day. After 10 days, it is completely removed, and the plant is taken out onto the street.

With a gradual stabbing of hosts, the initial temperature should not be below 18 degrees.

Growing the green queen of the garden from seeds, it should be remembered that the plant slowly grows and develops. She also loses the main characteristics of the variety. Patience and the right attitude to a young plant will help in this matter.

Landing hosts at the cottage and care

In order for the hosta in the garden to become a real decoration, it is necessary to create ideal conditions for it. The best option is a semi-shaded, windless place. Some varieties love a lot of light, so this fact should be taken into account. For example, if there is a lot of white or yellow color on the leaves, the plant likes light. Variegated options prefer the sun only in the mornings and evenings.

Given these points, one should wisely choose a permanent place for a shady beauty. The hosts depicted in the photo, the planting and care of which is done competently - this is a beautiful visiting card of the garden plot.

The wise gardener understands that the plant wants to rest from the summer heat in the shade. Therefore, planting tall trees or shrubs nearby. Конечно, не следует впадать в крайности, Если света будет совсем немного, хоста заболеет и потеряет свою привлекательность.

Когда место выбрано и почва готова, делаются лунки средней глубины.

Чтобы растение хорошо прижилось на открытом грунте, за 2 или 3 часа до высадки саженцы заливают водой.

At a distance of 30-60 cm from each other, bushes of undersized varieties of hosta are laid out. For giants - a distance of up to 1 m.

When laying seedlings in pits, it is necessary to carefully straighten the roots so as not to damage them. It is important to keep a little substrate from the pot on them.

Then the plant is covered with earth. It is important to remember: the host should be in a hole 2 cm below ground level. After watering, the planted plant is mulched with crushed bark.

It is advisable to perform the work in mid-July so that the hosts take root and successfully endure the cold times.

The hosta shown in the photo and caring for it does not require much effort. To grow a "queen of shadows" can afford people who do not particularly like to do land work. And for those who do not have a host at all for this time, a real find. When the plant grows, it requires minimal care. And with young seedlings will have to work a little.

Just planted bushes should be watered twice a day - in the morning and late in the evening. You need to direct a stream of water under the root, because the leaves can turn black from moisture. The water pressure should not be strong so that the soil under the plant does not condense. If the tips of the leaf plate are darkened, it means that the plant lacks moisture. This feature is an indicator of watering frequency.

To protect the root system of young seedlings and moisture near them, a little peat is poured around the plant. Periodically, the flower can be fertilized. It is better to do this in early spring or after the last flowering.

When a flower grows on a soil rich in minerals, then it can be fed once every 3 years. For this, it is better to use humus. Fertilize in late autumn as an element of mulching. Mineral dressing is scattered after a good rainfall or thorough watering.

Fertilizers in liquid form are used only until the middle of the summer period. If you make them longer, the flower will actively grow fresh leaves. As a result, she does not have time to switch to preparing for the cold period.

To make perennial bushes look attractive, experienced gardeners remove young peduncles and missing leaves. In this form, the flower looks well-groomed and decorates the summer cottage. The matured plant tightly covers the soil around it, so it does not need regular weeding from weeds.

Diseases and pests of charming hosts

If the "queen of shadows" has suffered from spring frosts, she is hit by a fungus. The disease manifests itself in dark yellow spots on the leaf plate.

Peduncles sometimes suffer from pests. In this case, such specimens should be dug from the garden to protect healthy flowers. The soil must be disinfected.

The main host pest is slugs. If huge holes appeared on the magnificent leaves, then the intruders are already there. To get rid of them, you can invite them to a beer. Small containers with beer are placed next to the flower. In a day, the “guests” will gather for their wake. It remains only to collect annoying parasites.

No less dangerous for the flower are caterpillars, which in a short time can destroy all the leaves. In addition to them, the plant is affected by grasshoppers or beetles. After their invasion, the flower resembles a battered warrior who returned from the battlefield. You can fight them only with the help of insecticides.

When a plant is provided with competent care and protection from pests, it will delight its owners for a long time. And the garden will turn into a favorite place of pleasure.

Hosta Landing: Simple Tricks

The right place is the key to health and longevity of a perennial that can grow on the site without transplanting for about 20 years and become a reliable basis for a flower bed of continuous flowering.

Best Hosting Places:

  • half-shaded place, sheltered from the winds,
  • soil with a high humus content, drained, well moistened, with neutral or weak acidity.

Varieties with a light yellow tint of leaves are more photophilous than blue varieties that are best planted in the shade.

Plant it in early May, when the threat of frost passes. Half a year before, feed the site with organic fertilizers, and dig it.

We plant the host in open ground:

  • prepare holes at a distance of 40-60 cm for ordinary, and 90-100 cm for giant varieties,
  • prepare the seed: pour the seedlings and remove from the pot together with an earthen lump, check the cuttings and dividers for damage or rotted roots, if any, then remove
  • place dividers or seedlings together with an earthen lump in the holes 2 cm below ground level,
  • spread the roots (for cuttings or cuttings), cover with earth, pour over,
  • mulch the earth around the seedling.

Even an unpretentious perennial requires care.

Caring for hosts suggests that you control two important points: high humus content and soil moisture.

The first 4 years after planting, fertilizers can be omitted. It is enough to mulch the soil around it once a year. It is also permissible to use liquid mineral fertilizers once every 14 days in the first half of summer (for poor land with a low content of nutrients).

The soil around the bush should be constantly moistened. Water it in the morning, avoid getting water on the leaves. Make sure that the flower is not affected by diseases and pests. If necessary, use special preparations, or remove a diseased plant from the site.

If you notice that the edges of the leaves have darkened, increase watering. Moderate moisture in the soil is the basis for maintaining these hosts.

The peculiarity of the plant is such that after flowering, the rosette loses its shape. To prevent this, some gardeners cut off flower stalks at the stage of formation. 5 years after planting, cuttings can be separated from the root and transplanted to another place.

September is the time of preparation for peace. If the perennial has retained peduncles, remove them. During this period, you can do the division of the bush.

How to transplant perennial?

The host is propagated by dividing the bush, cuttings, and the method of sowing seeds. The first method is applied at the end of summer: the root is divided into parts that are transplanted to new places. In the same way, young cuttings are separated from the root system of the bush.

Seed hosta?

The host, indeed, reproduces well by seed. When planting seeds, pre-treat the seed with root, epin, or other growth stimulants. If this is not done, the percentage of similarity is not more than 75%. Some gardeners claim that you can improve the quality of seeds by placing them in a cool place for several months. Sowing of seeds is carried out in the second or third month of spring.

The soil for planting seeds must be sterile. The best option is a special soil mixture bought in flower shops. It should include vermiculite, perlite, and peat.

Perennial landing stages:

  • sanitize the pot
  • place drainage at the bottom of the tank, fill it with soil, moisten,
  • place the seeds on the ground, and sprinkle them with a thin layer of soil (no more than 7 mm),
  • cover containers with seeds with a film, and place in storage at a temperature of no more than 19-25 degrees.

Subject to these conditions, the first seedlings will appear 14-20 days after sowing. They need to be protected from direct sunlight, and spray the soil with water as it dries.

When 2 leaves appear on the shoots, transplant them into a spacious container with a lump of earth. Cover the soil in new pots for a quarter with sand. Water the seedlings through the pan. From this moment, the seedlings are ready for gradual hardening: temporary and final removal of the film, placement in fresh air at a temperature of 18 degrees. It is important to remember that a hosta grown from seeds develops very slowly, but it needs more proper and regular care than an adult bush.

Why is the host not growing, what care is she missing?

Slowed growth and an unhealthy appearance are a sure sign of the disease. And the best treatment for any disease is proper regular care. Healthy bushes have great resistance to various adverse factors. Try to grow these perennials in places where there is sunlight and shade in the morning in the afternoon. Hosta does not like extremes - neither a dense shadow, nor a bright sun. Grow it in moist, well-drained soil, not allowing the soil to completely dry out.

The most common perennial pests are mouse voles. They love both the tops of the plant and their roots. Therefore, if you see holes next to it, you already know the answer to the question - why does the host grow poorly?

Keep the voles away from your host by carefully weeding the flower beds from weed weeds as they attract mice. Install a protective wire border near it so that it is more difficult for voles to get to the plant. Make it at least 20 cm high and about 15 cm below ground level so that voles do not dig holes in your flowerbed. Watch the mouse-protected bush come to life in a year:

Another problem is viral diseases, which manifest as tiny spots and leaf distortions. It is difficult to cope with these viral diseases; there are no effective chemical control agents. However, you have some leverage to manage this situation. Buy perennials from reliable sources. Disinfect your garden tools regularly. For already infected bushes, the option is to remove and destroy them.

The host is the basis of a shady garden - it creates magnificent textures and shapes, combining perfectly with ferns, astilbe, hydrangea and other unpretentious perennials for shady areas of the garden.

They will decorate the north side of the house and the space under large trees, places under the fence and in narrow shady walkways.

The host varieties delight with its variety and beauty.

In the darkest corners of your summer cottage, these perennials will grow and flourish if you provide them with rich, loose, moist soil and provide them with minimal care.

Then you can be sure that the host will delight you with its magnificent view for more than one year.

Hosts after flowering

After the flowers have dried, the stem where the flower was is removed. This is necessary so that the plant does not expend energy on the formation of seeds. After the hosts have faded, the time comes for transplanting, dividing the bush and preparing it for frost.

Dividing the bush and transplanting at the end of Augustso that the seedlings can put out roots in a new area. Do not plant in another part of the flower garden and do not propagate bushes that were sick in the summer and stunted.

Preparing for the winter:

  1. Until mid-August, feed the plant with complex fertilizer.
  2. Warm the roots with a thin layer of mulch (sawdust, peat).
  3. Do not remove dead leaves.
  4. Cover bushes with spruce branches or agrofibre. Do not use film for shelter, as vole mice can settle under it.

Varieties of hosts

Types of host by sheet form:

  1. Wavy. The size of the bush is 75 cm. The leaves are slightly rounded. The center of the leaf is white, the edges are greenish.
  2. Curly. Grows to 60 cm. Massive greenish leaves with a white border.
  3. Plantain. The size of the flower is up to 50 cm. Unpretentious appearance, the leaf is light green.
  4. Swollen. The size of the bush is 50 cm. The leaves are saturated green with sharp tips.
  5. Fortune. Grows to 50 cm. Leaves are green with a beige border.
  6. Siebold. Plant growth - 60 cm. Leaves are wide, rounded in shape, with visible veins.
  7. High. The size of the bush is up to 90 cm. The leaves are glossy, dark green.
  8. Hybrid. The growth, width and color of foliage differ in different varieties of this species.
  9. Lanceolate. Grows to 50 cm. The leaf is elongated, dark green.

Types of host by color sheet:

  • blue - bluish-blue color of foliage,
  • yellow - all varieties with yellow leaves,
  • green - all shades of green
  • variegate - varieties with variegated shoots with a border of white shade,
  • media variegate - varieties with light leaves and a green edge.

Consider the popular varieties:

  1. White Feathers. Bush height - 50 cm, beige-white leaves with bright green stripes. The flowers are almost white.
  2. Blue Angel A tall, sprawling bush up to 80 cm high and up to 2 meters wide. Large, blue-green leaves. White flowers.
  3. Brim Cup Height - 30 cm. Leaves are harvested, with a green center and a beige border.
  4. Royal. Height - 80 cm. Leaves are bright green, elongated, flowers are white bells.
  5. Undulata Mediovariegata. Height - up to 70 cm. The leaf is slightly curled, green with white veins.
  6. Oktober Sky (October Sky). Height - 40 cm. The leaves are thick, blue-blue with a curly edge. The flowers are purple.
  7. Patriot. Shiny, rich lime leaves. The flowers are pinkish.

Other interesting varieties:

  • Albopicta,
  • Alvatine Taylor,
  • American halo,
  • Avocado
  • Brenda’s Beauty,
  • Cameo
  • Carolina Blue,
  • El Nino
  • Great arrival
  • Halcyon (Halcyon),
  • Albopikta or Chameleon,
  • Cherry Berry
  • Sharmon (Sharman).

In general, you can list all varieties for a long time. In nature, there are already about 2500 varieties of host. And every year breeders develop new varieties. I must say that even for the most sophisticated gardener there is a variety to your liking, which is not yet in his collection.

Tips for decorating a flowerbed with a host

It must be said right away that the place where you decide to plant the host will remain naked until mid-May. This must be taken into account when designing flower beds. How beautiful is it to plant a host, with what flowers and plants to combine it?

Let's consider some options:

  1. Carpet planting around farm buildings, garden figures of large sizes. It is better to choose unpretentious varieties, such as Fortune, Podorozhnikova.
  2. A group of different types of host. In the foreground, plant medium-sized varieties with pale leaves. In the background, place larger specimens with dark foliage.
  3. Alpine hill and borders. Only miniature host varieties with medium-sized shoots will harmoniously look here. For example, varieties such as Blue Cadet, Light Up (Light up).
  4. Mixed planting with primroses, irises, daylilies. Such a composition is good in that the host will cover their drying greens in late April.
  5. In a sunny place you can grouproses, peonies with host varieties like Sun Power, June Fever.
  6. With perennial shrubs. Wide hosts will look beautiful together with red small leaves of barberry, long shoots of cereals.

These are just some of the ways to plant a host in your garden. It is multifaceted. It can be used as a background for brightly flowering crops, or be the head of a composition in a flower garden. As well as the host, it harmoniously looks next to conifers.

Its massive, wide leaves will not be lost in the thickets of plants such as juniper and thuja. Therefore, create and create your own unique flowerbed.

Summarizing

Planting agricultural and hosta care are simple. Even a beginner grower will cope with this. It is unpretentious, hardy, responds well to fertilizers, quickly grows green mass after dividing the bush.

The host is combined with almost all the plants in the garden. A variety of varieties makes it popular in the design of flower beds, far corners of the garden and alpine slides.

Even more information about growing hosts in the video:

Gardeners in their comments write that the hosta is a beautiful undemanding flower for care (for the lazy), easily transfers transplants. Hosts can be planted both in the sun and in the shade, depending on the variety. A variety of varieties satisfies the taste of any lover of flowers.

We invite you to read some reviews from gardening forums:

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