May 27, 2013 | Section: Useful Trivia
Hello dear readers of the site sesaga.ru. Skill to sew with a boot awl, this is a great help for a home master. To sew up a torn shoe or favorite slipper, you do not need to contact the shoe shop.
And if a soccer ball, bag, briefcase is torn, a cloak for a car went at the seams, or you wanted to sew yourself, for example, a tent from available material, you can do all this yourself yourself, having in your arsenal boot awl with hook and kapron threads.
Shoe awl can be purchased at a hardware store or in the market, and threads can be purchased in any department where sewing accessories are sold, or, again, in the market. The thread is usually used with a diameter of 0.5 to 1.0 mm. It all depends on what you will sew or patch.
For training, take a piece of thread about 1 meter long and a piece of cardboard.
We immediately determine where the cardboard will have the front side, and where the wrong side. For the front, I used the white side of the cardboard, and for the wrong side, the gray.
We pierce the cardboard with an awl, we hook the thread, hook the thread and pull the awl for ourselves, pulling it out of the cardboard along with the thread.
We retreat from the first hole of 8 - 10 mm and do one more. Again we catch the thread by the hook, we do the thread tension by hand and pull the awl onto ourselves, pulling the thread.
This time the thread is not pulled out completely, but in the form of a small loop.
We pass the free end into the loop and drag it to the end, as on the right side of the picture.
Now, on the front side, we stretch the loop, holding the thread on the wrong side with a slight tension. It should turn out like in the bottom picture:
You get a small eyelet on the front side (left side of the picture).
At the same time, we pull both ends of the thread, pulling the first stitch (right side of the picture). In this case, the loop should be tightened, but remain on the front side.
Again we back down 8 - 10mm, we pierce the cardboard, we hook the thread by the hook, we pull the awl together with the thread and leave the loop. We skip the wrong end of the thread into the loop, pull the thread, and pull the second stitch from both sides. Thus, making the stitch after stitch, a durable seam is obtained.
When it is necessary to finish the seam, do this: approximately 5 mm back from the last hole, make a hole with an awl, tighten the thread to the wrong side to the end, and tie the thread with an ordinary double or triple knot.
To prevent the knot from untying, we burn the ends of the thread.
And according to tradition, a short video about the sewing technique with a boot awl.
Preparing for firmware
The most difficult process becomes easy if you clearly understand what stages it consists of.
Shoemaking is no exception. If you have never seen this happening, it will seem difficult. But after reading the article, you will see that all the actions are familiar and all that remains is to fix them in practice.
First prepare the toolkit. You will need:
chalk or a bar of dry soap.
First, choose a thread. It should be durable, therefore, for shoe purposes, nylon threads 0.5-1 cm thick are sold. In addition to the nylon thread, use a cord, dividing it into several separate threads. Twine up to 50 cm long is suitable for sewing. Too large a cut will increase the working time, as it is inconvenient to operate with it.
You will need a tool - awl. With it, holes are made. Instead of an awl, it is permissible to use a screwdriver. Just pick the right diameter - up to 0.4 cm in diameter. Sharpen the tip by 1.2-2 cm so that the piercing process does not bring difficulties.
Hook is another toolwhich is necessary for pulling the thread. Its size depends on the type of shoe. Thick soles require larger boot hooks. To restore the seamed seams in the upper part of the shoe, use special knitting hooks.
We train to flash shoes
Before the main work, practice on old shoes, or a thick piece of cardboard. Determine for yourself where the cardboard is on the front side and where is the bottom.
Use the outsole of the old sneaker to assess the real extent of the action.
Clean your shoes and draw a chalk line of the alleged seam. To do this, step back from the edge of the product to 5 ml. So you prevent premature thinning of the thread. Take the prepared thread and fold it once. Connect the ends to match. Since the thread should be in your left hand, put it to the left. For a right-handed person, this law operates with the opposite opposite.
Place a piece of cardboard or an outsole in your left hand, take an awl with your right hand. Make a hole in the place where, in your opinion, the seam should start. The awl should be driven at an angle of 45 degrees. The outlet should be on the sole. During piercing, carefully remove your hand from the sewing line of the awl. This way you prevent injuries.
After making a hole, pull out the awl and insert the crochet hook into the hole. Take it along the same projection as the awl. After the active part of the hook gets on the back side of the punctured plane, take the thread in the middle part at the place of rotation in the left hand and put the loop on the hook. At the same time, try to pull the hook with the loop from the outsole or cardboard with your right hand. Pull the thread 1 cm. And unhook the hook.
Gently pull one half of the thread through the hole. As a result, you should have two ends on both sides of the work plane. You can check it this way: take the thread at the two ends with both hands and spread your arms apart. The sole will remain hanging in the middle.
It is time to complete the first stitch. Make the second hole at a distance of 6-8 ml from the first.
Make a hole on the previously drawn line of the proposed seam.
Pull the hook into the hole made. From one half of the kapron thread, twist the loop, and hook the hook and pull the loop 1 cm to the opposite side. Remove the hook and pull the free end of the thread located on the side of the loop through the loop. Pull the thread through the elongated hole. Tighten the loop. To do this, take the part that is on the opposite side of the loop and pull until the loop completely disappears.
Perform the final fixation, holding both ends of the thread at the same time. Make sure that the stitch is tightly pulled, and the loop itself is located with a thicker outsole. Make sure that the loop is not located on the outside or inside.
If it is from the outside, the stitch looks unaesthetic. If from the inside, the thread will break quickly and the seam will open. Do the same with the second, third and subsequent stitches. At the final stage, sew 3-5 stitches in reverse to fix the seam and prevent it from opening. Alternatively, you can tie the threads on a knot and cauterize the ends with matches.
Handmade shoe firms
Even in the age of maximum automation, handmade shoes are not outlandish. Classic English productions that are highly sought after throughout the world:
They produce genuine leather and suede shoes, hand-sewn. At the same time, there are much more stages of production than with mass automated manufacturing. Steam can be produced within a month, depending on the type of material and the complexity of the form.
As for the shapes and designs, the most popular hand-made boots are:
They differ in the type of lacing. Oxfords have a closed lacing hidden by the front of the boot. The side parts are sewn in wedge-shaped, perforation is possible.
Derby, on the other hand, has an open lacing, and the side parts are sewn over the front so that when the lacing is untied, the shoes diverge freely. Derby can also be perforated and is considered the most versatile shoe for any occasion.
The entire structure of the shoe is divided into upper and lower parts. The upper part consists of such elements:
- Sock - closes the toes, withstands the greatest mechanical stress when socked.
- Vamp - closes the back of the foot and connects the toe, tongue and berets.
- Bertsa - close the ankle joint, they are sewn to the vamp.
- Cringle - the upper part of the shoe, designed for holes or lacing hooks.
- Back - protects the heel and foot, fixes the heel, made of hard leather.
- Tongue - covers the upper part of the foot, sewn to the vamp.
- Insole - connects the upper and lower parts.
As part of the bottom of the product:
- Sole - sewn along the contour with the upper part, divided into soles, gelenki, welt and filler.
- Heel - lifts the heel and attaches to the sole, the upper layer may be rubber.
- Heel - protects the heel from rubbing.
- A welt is a connecting element between parts.
- Protective inserts - prevent abrasion of the lower layer of the heel.
- Filler - fills the space under the insole, increases comfort during operation.
- An arch support is a wooden or metal part fixed between the sole and the insole.
Knowledge of the design of shoes allows you to make every detail more efficiently, in accordance with its purpose.
Having prepared a block by the standards, they sew a preliminary layout. To create it, they sew on a finished block of thin genuine leather. Here you should determine what kind of model the model will have, how the seams are located, whether there is a pattern or perforation.
At this stage, the shoe for the future pair of shoes is ready, as well as its upper part. Now this upper part is literally pulled back to back on a previously prepared block. At this stage, the most important step is the laying of the insole, since the convenience of operating the shoes depends on the correctness of its installation.
The sole can be made of different materials - they should be clarified in advance with the customer, prompting him the most suitable option for the desired pair. Often make leather or rubber soles.
Sewed soles are reinforced with small studs - craftsmen use them for straightness and reliability of the heel. The latter is recruited from thick skin in several layers.