What event do you think can make even a notorious hooligan dress up in a luxurious dress and become a princess for at least one night? That's right, school graduation!
Only six months will pass, and that once ugly girl with curls will pass exams, get a certificate and go to one of the most important holidays of her life. Graduates always prepare for this festive evening in advance, because you still need to have time to sew a unique dress that emphasizes the figure and style of its owner. Today we will understand together how the pattern of dresses for graduation is built, and also offer you several options for holiday dresses for young beauties!
Do-it-yourself flirty midi prom dress
We propose to sew together this delicate dress with a fluffy skirt to the knee and an unusual decorative cut on the chest in pale blue. A cute little dress on a petticoat is a real manifesto of youth and the beauty of its owner!
What you need to know when working with silk?
you need to choose the right thread. Silk and chiffon are delicate fabrics, therefore, you need to take high-quality threads - thin and durable.
If you took silk threads, then be sure to check them for strength! Threads should not be easily torn by hands. There are many rayon or silk threads on sale now, but they can be for embroidery, not sewing. And the threads for embroidery do not withstand the load in the seams when worn and can burst.
Premium threads are good when working with silk - German brands Madeira No. 140 and Guttermann. Although synthetic, they are 100% polyester, but they blend perfectly with silk.
Guttermann Tera 180 threads are also suitable for chiffon. They are thinner than universal threads and are intended for overcasting, but they are also suitable for sewing in thickness and strength. The coil 2000 m long enough. You can unwind it over the bobbins and put it both on the typewriter and on the overlock. With these threads, you get a wonderful thin, narrow and very delicate role seam for processing the edges of wide skirts or ruffles.
a good tool helps a lot with delicate fabrics. This, for example, scissors for silk. They have one notched blade. These notches do not allow the tissue to slide off, so a more accurate cut is obtained.
In addition, there are special pins. They are very thin, with sharp tips and glassy little round red heads. Under the iron, such heads do not melt; pins do not leave marks or clues on silk.
Delicate fabrics need to be sewn with thinner needles. The thinner the fabric, the thinner the needle. As a rule, these are needles No. 60–70.
There are Microtex needles, they have a special, sharpened tip that easily punctures the fabric, puncture marks on such a needle are less noticeable, the needle does not cut.
Well, the main rule - when working with expensive fabric, it is better to put a new needle so that the dull tip does not cling to the fabric threads in the seam.
Fabric before sewing must be printed!
It is better to soak silk in warm water, it is possible with a tablespoon of vinegar. This will not allow him to lose color or fade. Then the fabric needs to be wrung out manually, not twisting too much, dried and ironed from the inside, while it is still slightly damp. Satin silk is better not to rub and twist, and squeeze in a towel.
Water droplets should not get on dry silk, otherwise spots may remain. If stains nevertheless appeared, you will have to moisten the entire piece of fabric again.
If you have satin silk without elastane, then it is better to cut along the transverse to avoid thinning seams when worn. Or you need to glue all the seams with a thin glue before sewing them together.
Modeling the front of the bust
We reshoot the front bust on the tracing paper and apply the modeling line (pay attention to the photo above). We close the chest tucks - for this we need to transfer the left tuck to the side line, and the right chest tuck to the waist line.
We move the tuck on the left at the waist two centimeters to the midline of the front part.
We shorten the length of the shoulders to seven centimeters and raise the notch of the neck of the front part by three centimeters. We deepen the armholes by two centimeters. We draw new lines of armholes and necklines.
On the front, we draw a neat petal-shaped notch. We cut the blanks of the bust and the front part according to the features of the simulation.
So, we proceed to tailoring the dress.
The coupon is very limited choice of style, because the most saturated part of the coupon, it was decided to leave on the skirt. We cut it off first.
The skirt is Tatyana, consists of two rectangular pieces, collected at the waist. The width of each panel is the width of a piece of fabric - 1.4 m. That is, the width of the entire skirt was 2.8 m.
Sew the side seams of the skirt with a French seam. First, we fold the fabric inside out and sew the seam.
But in our left side there will be a hidden lightning. How to combine it with a French seam? You can make a notch at the end of the zipper on the allowance, but in loose fabrics, the place of the notch must be glued! I just put a line to the edge of the fabric at the end of the zipper. We cut allowances to 5 mm.
We fold the fabric face to face, iron the seam so that the allowances remain between the fabric and grind the seam already 7 mm from the edge. The seam is cleanly carved without an overlock, the allowances are hidden inside the seam.
Ironing allowances to the side, front view. Glue allowances under the zipper above the seam with adhesive strips.
So that the cut does not get enough sleep, we zigzag along the upper cut of the skirt. Then we lay two lines with a wide landing stitch along the upper cut of the skirt, tighten them and evenly distribute the assembly at the waist. The skirt is almost ready.
Choose a successful bodice pattern for such a magnificent skirt. For clarity, we make mock bodices in three patterns and measure them with a skirt.
With these models of the bodice, but with one skirt, the general appearance of the dress is completely different.
We chose the bodice shown in the last photo.
Fit the mock up of the bodice according to the figure, cut out the details of the top and lining on it, glue the allowances with strips of thin glue.
Stitch the seams of the bodice with French seams, like on a skirt. Sew the left side only 5 cm below the armhole, below the zipper will be sewn. To allow glue allowances under a lightning. To complete the French seam above the zipper, allowances at the beginning of the zipper must be cut after reinforcing the adhesive.
It was decided to make a cutout on the back. To do this, we bend back parts to the laundry along the middle seam.
Strengthen the bend with adhesive strips and cut back parts with allowances of 1-1.5 cm.
We decorate the back with a fastener with hinged loops and buttons in a row.
How to do this is shown in the master class Processing a bodice of a dress with a lining
Insert the bodice into the skirt, insert and sweep the bodice into the skirt.
Put on a dress, tie a waist with a narrow elastic band. Mark the exact waist line along the bottom edge of the elastic. This is necessary so that the waist is exactly in place horizontally. Skip the skirt exactly according to the marking.
Stitch the bodice to the skirt, lay another line along the edge of the allowance. Since the skirt is heavily fitted, this line presses the assembly along the edge of the allowance, it will be easier to sew over the edge with it.
Iron allowances with assembly, overcast seam allowances at the waist. Remove landing lines.
Sew the zipper into the left side seam.
To do this, the seam must be swept away, aligning the seam at the waist, ironing allowances. The allowances are glued with thin glue!
Iron the zipper so that it hooks, then prick in the allowances so that the lock comes out exactly at the beginning of the cut under the zipper. And the cloves lay exactly along the sour cream seam.
Draw lightning close to cloves only for allowances.
Remove the basting from the seam, unzip. Stitch the zipper. Carefully stretch the zipper lock to the front of the skirt.
Bringing beauty from the inside out. First you need to surround the lower tip of the zipper, then the long sides of the zipper along with the allowances of the skirt, but only at the skirt, because the bodice is covered with a lining.
Tuck the lining of the bodice from the bottom and pin it with a small inlet so that it does not pull in the toe, over the seam at the waist. Allowances remain lined.
Around the zipper, also tuck the lining and pin it so that it does not interfere with the passage of the zipper lock.
Sew a lining around the zipper and waist manually with a hidden stitch. Iron the lining at the zipper and at the waist.
The result was a clean wrong side without overlock lines. The zipper at the top is covered with a lining, and at the bottom it is edged.
Dress skirt pattern for prom
The skirt here is extremely simple! We will need to draw a rectangular blank, the length of which should be equal to the circumference of the hips, multiplied in two, and the length - sixty-five centimeters. If the width of the fabric does not allow you to cut out the skirt with a single piece, we recommend making seams on the sides.
In order for the skirt to keep its volume and keep its shape well, it will be necessary to sew a petticoat. It comes out of two blanks: top and bottom.
Dimensions for the upper workpiece: width - one and a half girth of the waist by the measure, the length is twenty-five centimeters.
Dimensions for the lower workpiece: width - two hips, length - thirty-eight centimeters.
The finished petticoat should be two centimeters shorter than the main skirt.
How to tailor a prom dress
Advice on the selection of fabric: to make the dress truly elegant and solemn, we recommend that you use plain satin, satin or taffeta in your work.
In the process, we will use such tools and materials:
- pale blue satin (depending on the size of the product, 2.5-3 m, width - 1.45 m),
- fabric for lining in tone with the bust (0.6-0.8 m),
- cotton satin for a petticoat (1.4-1.6 m),
- secret lightning (60 cm),
- adhesive adhesive to strengthen the contours of the relief incision on the bust,
- matching sewing threads
- sewing machine,
- sharpened scissors
- pencil or marker for work on fabric.
From the pale blue satin we need to find:
- two preparations of the back of the bodice,
- one left and one right side of the front,
- one blank for a skirt.
From the fabric for the pad we need to carve:
- two blanks for the back of the bodice,
- one blank of the left and right parts of the front,
- one top blank for the petticoat.
From cotton sateen we need to carve:
- one lower blank for the petticoat.
Remember the seam allowances: we retreat one and a half centimeters on all sides of the parts, in addition to the bottom of the skirt and the petticoat - here you need to retreat four centimeters for hem.
How to sew a dress for graduation: master class
On the blanks for the front of the bodice from the base fabric and lining, grind the left embossed line to the embossed section. The allowances are cut closer to the seam and thoroughly ironed. In addition, we grind the right horizontal tuck (both on satin and on the lining).
We fold the blanks of the front part from satin and the lining face to face, wipe them along a curly neckline and grind them. We cut allowances as close to stitches as possible. We bend the lining to the wrong side, clean the edges of the cutout and iron.
Next, we take the back of the bust: here we grind the tucks, iron their depth to the midline of the back. In pairs, we grind the blanks of the back and front of satin and lining - this is done in order to leave allowances between the product itself and the lining.
Next, the bodice is sewn in a single layer.
Stitch seams on the shoulders, process stocks with an oblique trim and iron them well.
We prepare the blank for the satin skirt on the top to the length of the lower cut of the bust. We take out and sharpen the skirt to the top of the dress.
Stitch the zipper in the center of the back.
We sew a petticoat
We collect the lower workpiece on the top and grind it to the top along the line AB. We tuck the petticoat up to the length of the lower cut of the bodice. Stitch along the back seam to the zipper.
We turn the dress inside out, put on the petticoat face up, then we lift it, directing it upward, we combine the cut along the waist of the petticoat with the cut of the skirt. It remains only to sweep and grind the details along the seam with which the skirt was stitched. Lower the petticoat.
Final touches - we bend and hem manually allowances to the zipper along the middle seam of the petticoat. We bend the bottom of the skirt and try on. The allowances along the lower edge of the petticoat are also bent and stitched.
Do not forget to process the notch of the neck and armholes with an oblique collar!
That's all, sewing is complete! The dress is steamed and allowed to dry on a hanger with shoulders.
Scarlet feminine dress on one shoulder
Elegant dress made of jersey - dense knitted fabric, which is a pleasure to sew from! Due to the presence of elastane in the material, the finished product will beautifully fit the figure, emphasizing all its advantages. The outfit is decorated with a silver metal zipper sewn along the side seam and soft fabric folds on the shoulder.
Graduation dress pattern
The product is designed on the basis of the basic pattern of a woman’s dress, which each craftswoman can adjust to individual parameters. An increase in the half-circumference of the chest does not need to be done, since the fabric and model of the bodice involves fitting in the figure.
Cut the pattern of the front half of the product at the waist. Cloth skirts cut unchanged.
We model the front bodice
On the right side of the bodice of the front of the waist line, put up twenty-three centimeters up, put a point. We connect it to the neck of the front (shoulder point). On the left shoulder from the neckline section, we postpone three centimeters and put a point. We connect it to the top of the right breast tuck.
We cut the bust along the modeling lines and push it apart, closing the tuck on the chest. The front cutout needs to be straightened. In addition, we attach a one-piece edging to the front cutout of a width of three centimeters. We cut the hem of the armhole three centimeters wide and cut it separately.
Modeling the bodice of the back
We cut the pattern of the back half of the dress at the level of the waist. We cut out the back fabric of the skirt without additional modeling. The back of the bodice is cut along the lines of modeling, which are already plotted on the pattern. Close the tuck tucks.
We stand idle for one-piece edging of the back section three centimeters wide. We cut the hem of the armhole three centimeters wide and cut it separately.
How to sew prom jersey dresses
On the blanks for the front of the dress and the back along the shoulder, we lay the folds in the directions indicated by the arrows. We lay the auxiliary line along the folds.
Stitch the shoulder seam, while also sewing the short seam of the one-piece seams.
We bend off the grooves of the recess of the front of the product and the back to the wrong side and iron.
Having finished the right side seam, iron the seam allowances. We process a small armhole with a trim cut.
On the left side from the armhole to the very bottom we sew in a metal zipper. Iron allowances on the wrong side, glue or rebuild.
Tuck the hem of the dress and stitch it.
Elegant scarlet prom dress is ready!
Romantic Prom Dress
This cocktail dress is suitable for a romantic date, and for a full release! Want to make it everyday? Just put on a short leather jacket or a light coat.
A dress sewn from iridescent taffeta complements an elegant neckline on a lace back. This is exactly the case when even a modest-looking product has its own zest,)
Despite the simplicity of the silhouette, the dress has a very complicated cut, so we have to tinker a bit with the alteration of the basic pattern (we, as you already noticed, use it for sewing all dresses).
Modeling the front half
From the waist level on the lateral cut, set aside four centimeters and draw a horizontal line (we do not bring it four centimeters to the tuck), mark this segment as AA1.
Then from A1 we lower the perpendicular to the bottom of the front of the dress.
From the top of the neck, we draw a relief line through the top of the chest tuck, along the tuck tucks and to the bottom of the front of the product.
We draw a slightly concave neckline, deepening by fifteen to sixteen centimeters, as shown in the photo.
We postpone the length of the shoulders - five centimeters, draw a new line for the armholes.
From the waist along the side slice, lay ten centimeters upwards and connect this point with a straight line with the top of the chest tuck. We simulate a triangular lace insert.
We cut all the blanks on the applied modeling lines.
Modeling the back
We deepen the notch of the neck, put off the length of the shoulders five centimeters, draw a line armhole.
From the waist level on our side, we postpone four centimeters down and draw a horizontal strip, not reaching four centimeters before the tuck-in - this will be segment BB1.
Further from the mark B1 we lower the vertical line down to the level of the bottom of the back.
We retreat ten centimeters from the waist along the lateral part of the pattern and draw a line at a slight angle to the middle of the back.
Cut back blanks on already drawn modeling lines.
Modeling a pleated side insert
Important! On the side of the front part and the back part there is an insert with folds, which we need to cut out as a whole rectangle (without a side seam). Глубина складочек составляет четыре сантиметра, расстояние между ними регулируем под желаемый размер изделия. Длина верхнего краешка вставки со складками равняется сумме АА1 плюс ВВ1.
Обратите внимание на детали кроя, изображённые на чертеже ниже:
Как кроится платье с заниженной линией талии
Tips for choosing fabric: we recommend using taffeta with shimmer and elastic lace.
In the process, we will use such tools and materials:
- high-quality taffeta with low tide (depending on the size of the product, 2.5-2.7 meters in length and 1.45 meters in width),
- lace to match the taffeta (half a meter will be enough, roll width - 90 centimeters),
- slanting inlay (we will use it to process the neck, armholes and notches of the back),
- sewing threads in fabric color,
- secret lightning (20 cm).
From taffeta we need to find: all the details of the dress.
From lace we need to carve:
- two blanks for the back,
- two blanks of a triangular insert (in the diagram proposed above, they are painted in red).
Cut parts with allowances of one and a half centimeters for all blanks except the hem - here we leave four centimeters.
How to sew a graduation dress
We grind the lace insert-triangle to the bodice, grind the lateral tuck, process the allowances and iron them down. We grind the middle part to the sides of the bodice. Process allowances and iron.
We process the lace blanks of the back along the middle longitudinal edges with an oblique edging: we cut off the allowances, wrap the edging around the edge and adjust it.
We sew a hidden zipper on the back. We sew the central part of the skirt with a zipper to the lace details of the back, process the allowances and iron them down.
On the bodice we grind the side seams, we process and iron out the allowances. On the details of the insert, we lay the folds, we sew the insert on the side of the dress, on the corner we cut it.
We process the neck of the front part with an oblique edging, grind the seams of the shoulders, and make a buttonhole for the button from the oblique back. Sew on the button. We process the notches of the armholes in the same way as the neck.
It remains only to process the hem of the dress - we bend and hem it manually by a hidden seam.
Dress for graduation is ready!
We sew a long scarlet dress with bare shoulders
It doesn’t matter if you go on a date, corporate event, graduation or Oscar - in this dress you will be irresistible! What is the secret of such success? Firstly, the color - scarlet advantageously emphasizes beautiful delicate skin. Secondly, a straight silhouette with a high side cut visually lengthens the legs. Thirdly (control in the head!), Neckline, which will demonstrate fragile, graceful shoulders. Well, let's get started? 🙂
Dress pattern on the floor
Like all the previous ones, this pattern is modeled on the basis of the basic pattern for women's dresses. An increase for freedom of fit should not be done, since the product is made of elastic fabric (we use dense jersey). Do not be afraid of modeling - this model will be on hand even for beginner craftswomen!
Modeling the front of the dress
From the neckline in front of the product we retreat twenty-two centimeters. We divide the armhole line in half, connect the previous mark with the armhole, draw a notch in the neck of the front part.
We draw a detail of the drapery of the front of the dress with a width of fifteen centimeters and a length from the middle of the front part to the extreme mark of the shoulder.
On the front workpiece, we shoot the right short side from the left (the angle of inclination in the middle of the front). We cut out the detail double (thirty centimeters wide), place the bend on top and tuck on the front and shoulders.
From the top of the chest tuck we draw a vertical line to the bottom of the front part. Cut the front half of the product along the marked lines, cut the tuck.
We simulate the back in the same way. We remove the tuck tuck to the side.
The rectangular blanks for decorating the neckline of the front part and back are combined along the shoulder line and cut out with one part thirty centimeters wide (fifteen centimeters in finished form).
Custom evening dress
Fabric Selection Tip: Prefer exclusively tight knitwear.
Important! We sew a dress exclusively from stretching materials! Details of the cut can be seen in the diagram below:
We cut out all the blanks, not forgetting the allowances for the seams: one and a half centimeters from all sides, along the hem of the dress, leave four centimeters.
Duplicate the details with thermal cloth.
We sew a dress for the prom do-it-yourself
We grind the cut blanks in front at embossed seams, grind the left embossed seam to the mark of the cut, allowances are processed with an overlock or zigzag seam. Stitch side seams.
Stitching details on the sides. We overlay the grooves for the cutouts for the armholes (with the front sides) and grind them according to the allowances for the armholes. We bend the stitches, iron them well, grind the allowances to the grinders and fix the last with a few neat stitches at the side seams.
Drapery for the décolleté zone is stitched along the central seam of the back, bent in half along the wrong side outward, seam along the longitudinal seam in the place between the armholes of the front and back of the dress.
The allowances are cut to the seam, we turn the part on the face, grind the allowances along the neckline of the front and back of the dress, collecting them together (we lay the auxiliary line).
Next, we sew lines with a stitch length of four millimeters on the shoulders, front and back, we select the workpiece up to ten to twelve centimeters. On the front of the product we impose the right side of the workpiece on the left, sweep.
We note the part to the recess of the product along the front and back of it (we leave the armholes free). Stitch the blank to the evening dress. We cut an allowance in the center of the front part to form a neat corner. The allowances are processed with an overlock or we pass on them on a typewriter with a zigzag line. Iron them up.
The remaining open allowances for seams along the hem of the dress are processed and sewn by hand with a blind seam.
That's it, the perfect red dress is done!